A "clerical error" is a big stretch. I can't see how an '84 VIN, complete with the correct check digit and model year code, could be put on title that's for an '86 model year car. (The '86 check digit would most likely be different and the model year code would most certainly be different.) Sounds more like a VIN plate swap (w/ matching title) to me. If it's a VIN/title swap, it could be beacuse the '86 is stolen, or the title has been branded as salvage, destroyed, etc. You need to go over that car thoroughly. The following items should all match.
1. The VIN plate riveted to the firewall, visible through driver-side base of windshield. You should be able to see the rivets on either side of the complete VIN. The plate should not just be laying in there or held in with double-side sticky tape. It should not be cut, or bent, etc. There should not be anything in or around the area that's obstructing the view of the whole plate, e.g. a piece of paper trying to hide the fact that the plate has been tampered with.
2. The Vehicle Certifcation Label ("door sticker/tag") on the rear face of the driver-side door. This will also have the complete VIN and some of the codes will match the original Buck Tags, most importantly the DSO and the last six of the VIN. Sometimes the label is painted over or has been removed, or the door has been replaced, so it may not be of any help.
3. The Buck Tags. One tag has the DSO (76-0109 in this case), which should match the DSO on the VC Lablel. The other tag has the partial VIN (last six). There are lots of other codes and some can be matched to the VC Label.
4. A partial VIN (last eight) on the engine and transmission. See the attachments for the VIN locations on each.
5. A partial VIN on the inner fender tags. The outer fenders have to be removed to see these tags. There is one on each inner fender, and the tag is spot welded from the factory. The last eight of the VIN is stamped to the tag.
That's SEVEN places where a full or partial VIN can be found on the car.
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