1982 CHP #0327 - Page 8

28HopUp · #71 06-26-2016, 09:17 AM

Keep up the good work!

Steve · #72 11-17-2016, 12:21 AM

chp1982 and I worked out a deal and 0327 has come across the country back to California, about 55 miles from where it started out (at Motor Transport, West Sacramento).

It is much further along than my other 1982, #0204, so I think I'll focus on it. Since it's driveable, I'll work on getting it smog checked first so I can register it. I've heard these cars are hard to get past the smog check here, so if it doesn't have catalytic converters I may have to put some in or replace them if it has original ones.

One of the advantages of having another, more complete car is that it serves as an example of where things go or should go. I think it will help me solve's 0204's radiator issue, where to put the clutch cable bracket, and some other issues I have had with 0204, which is rough.

Then I will have another decision to make: whether to make it a fun, driveable car that has emergency equipment installed but painted a solid color or even black and white with no decals, or go full resto and have a car I can take to shows but not use otherwise.

It's really tempting to go full decal; just seeing people's faces when they look at the restored ones at shows and ask "Is that legal to have"? is fun and then they want hear all about the hobby, and of course, that's what it's all about.

So 0327 will get attention first, then later, perhaps 0204. Or 0204 might just go into mothballs for some future purpose.

28HopUp · #73 11-17-2016, 09:13 AM

Congrats on the new SSP.

chp1982 · #74 11-17-2016, 11:34 AM

0327 couldn't be going to a better home. Thanks again, Steve. I'm glad it went to you.

ImEvil1 · #75 11-17-2016, 12:24 PM

Congrats, Steve. Glad to see that one back in CA.

Steve · #76 11-17-2016, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chp1982

0327 couldn't be going to a better home. Thanks again, Steve. I'm glad it went to you.

Thank you for the extra parts and the smooth transaction. Worked out well, including shipping the veh. cross country.

I will continue the tradition of posting update pics her as they occur.

MOstang · #77 11-17-2016, 07:16 PM

Congratulations.

Steve · #78 03-24-2017, 02:28 PM

Work is progressing on the restoration. I've started in the interior, with the idea of wiring, fixing interior issues that I can handle, then taking the car to a shop for headliner replacement.

Carburetor/Electric Choke: On cold start the engine would jump to a high idle (~2500 rpm) and take forever before it could be brought down. Only when it was thoroughly warmed up could I get it to come down. Those 2-barrel carbs have electric chokes so I checked the voltage supplied from the alternator, and it was ~1.7, ok. Then I checked the choke coil and it was bad. Replaced the choke coil, adjusted the choke, and works great now.

Package tray: Completely shot, so using the old one as a pattern, I fabricated a replacement. As soon as the 3M fabric spray glue comes in I'll get the fabric cover on and install it.

Speakers (dash): The original Ford 3.5", 3.2 Ohm speakers were shot. Perhaps I could have reconed them, but I couldn't find any small speaker reconing kits for sale, probably because it is far cheaper to just replace them. I thought about sending them to a shop for reconing, but it would have been very expensive and there are so many other places to put the money. I found a good set of 3.5" full-range speakers online, and they are almost exact drop-in replacements for the originals. They even have the same size and type of mounting flange and the holes for the screws match up. They are 4 Ohm; I have read that CHP ordered 3.2 Ohm custom to work with the CC1 output. The small impedance difference probably wouldn't matter, but I soldered a 1/2W 18 Ohm resistor across the terminals of each speaker to bring the impedance close to 3.2 Ohms anyway.

I was hoping to find some wiring harnesses left under the dash for connection to the CC1, but I didn't so I will have to make the harnesses up. So I need to sit down and make up a plan, get a fusebox, etc. It's tempting to get a fuse panel that uses the modern blade fuses, since I will hide the panel under the dash anyway, but I'll have to think about that.

Rear Deck Amber/Red lights: I had a set someone put together, but it was not wired and had only a single, flat bracket with two holes to fasten it down to the package tray. The original package tray had no such holes. When I removed the rear seat I found two holes had been drilled, 15" apart in the sheet metal about 2" under the package tray deck, right about where the light set would have been located. I think those are the originals, so I am going to modify the mounting bracket to use those holes. Rewiring already done for the light set and they work well.

One of these days I am going to do a bench setup of the CC1 Controller I have to see if it works.

Wig Wag Controller (Unitrol Model 131): I have one, but it's old and I don't know if it works. The circuit itself is pretty straightforward and I know you can get the relay and the flasher, but if someone has an NOS one for sale I'd be in the market for it.

Wolfe1013 · #79 03-24-2017, 03:26 PM

Steve, can you post up the details on those speakers? I have the driver side but the passenger side is missing. I grabbed some out of a 1984 Mustang convertible at the junkyard but I know they won't be CHP-spec.

Good work.

Steve · #80 03-24-2017, 04:14 PM

The speakers I got were found on Amazon, they are "BOSS AUDIO CH3220 Chaos Exxtreme 3.5" 2-way 140-watt Full Range Speakers", here's the URL:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$15 for the pair and they are supposedly rated for 140W, so they should be fine. And they are full-range, not tweeters. That's about the cost of shipping the originals to a custom shop for reconing, and it would probably be hundreds of dollars each to have them reconed/rebuilt. Only for the extreme purist.

I have attached pics of the original Ford speakers. They had a circle of fabric glued over the speaker cone, probably to help protect from the sun.

I forgot to mention that I also unsoldered the wiring from the Ford speakers and soldered it to the new speakers. so they will connect to the existing speaker harness connectors.

Description of attached pics, in order:

Top view photo of original speaker with fabric circle attached. Wiring harness and connector already removed.
Top view of original speaker with fabric removed.
Back of original speaker. Hard to see p/n, but OEM Ford 3.2 Ohm.
Another view of back of original speaker.
View of replacement with wiring harness and impedance adjusting resistor soldered to terminals.
Top view of replacement speaker with wiring harness and connector in place.
View of driver's side speaker location through windshield.
View of replacement dropped in, awaiting mounting screws. The new speakers even came with new clips and mounting screws. Drop-in replacement.