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  #191  
Old 03-16-2018, 12:07 PM
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Wolfe1013 Wolfe1013 is offline
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Great work, Steve. I love the attention to detail you and the shop are giving this car. I’m really interested in how they will replace the black matting at the front of the trunk, behind the rear seat. I’ve never seen a reproduction that I recall.
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1982 CHP Mustang Coupe, Unit # E870567 **SOLD to chp1982**
1988 Mustang 5.0 LX, Unit # HP 43 (Wyoming Highway Patrol)
1991 Ford Crown Victoria S (Brentwood, CA Police Dept/Cinema Vehicle Svcs)
1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS B4C, Unit # 360 (Colorado State Patrol) **SOLD BACK TO CSP**
1996 Bronco XL 5.8L (California Highway Patrol)
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  #192  
Old 03-16-2018, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfe1013 View Post
Great work, Steve. I love the attention to detail you and the shop are giving this car. I’m really interested in how they will replace the black matting at the front of the trunk, behind the rear seat. I’ve never seen a reproduction that I recall.
Thanks, it's taking a long time, but I think it will be worth it in the long run. chp1982 says there is a company that makes those trunk insulation pads.

I'll almost be afraid to work on this vehicle when it's finished. Afraid I might scratch something. I will put all the emergency equipment, including the trunk gear, back when it is done. Carefully...
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  #193  
Old 03-17-2018, 02:15 PM
ssp5.0 ssp5.0 is offline
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Great job on the restoration, can't wait to see the end result, it will be worth the wait!
I've never seen an original sound deadener between the trunk and seat but, Late Model Restoration sells an item that says has a thicker jute padding on the interior and a black material on the trunk side. There is a video on their YouTube site. Hope this helps you out. Let everyone know if it is appropriate, looks original.
Bruce
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  #194  
Old 03-18-2018, 05:49 PM
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mac88chp mac88chp is offline
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I'll almost be afraid to work on this vehicle when it's finished. Afraid I might scratch something. I will put all the emergency equipment, including the trunk gear, back when it is done. Carefully...
Fear not, it's the most enjoyable and rewarding time of the project. Just be patient and take your time with everything and you won't go too wrong. I did so and really only ruined one part the whole time. I broke one of the inside A pillar covers but luckily had a spare pristine used one. The only scary moment was drilling it for the spotlight shaft.
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1988 CHP #3035

http://public.fotki.com/Classicchp/
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  #195  
Old 03-20-2018, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssp5.0 View Post
Great job on the restoration, can't wait to see the end result, it will be worth the wait!
I've never seen an original sound deadener between the trunk and seat but, Late Model Restoration sells an item that says has a thicker jute padding on the interior and a black material on the trunk side. There is a video on their YouTube site. Hope this helps you out. Let everyone know if it is appropriate, looks original.
Bruce
Thanks, I'll check it out.
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  #196  
Old 03-24-2018, 12:43 PM
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looking good Steve.
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for the first time since 1998 there is only two left:

1984 Oregon SP unmarked
1986 Idaho SP
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  #197  
Old 03-27-2018, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by NoDrama43 View Post
looking good Steve.
Thanks Jim. I'll keep the updates coming and I got the info on the trunk sound deadener mat so I'll order it.
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  #198  
Old 04-28-2018, 02:09 PM
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Default Visited 0327 Yesterday

The shop has been busy doing insurance work so not much has progressed since last visit, but this time I did some work myself. This was a great opportunity to remove the fuel tank and see what was inside. 4 bolts, disconnect the hoses and wiring and it was out. No problem. I've attached two photos of the tank, one as it came out, and the second with everything removed.

I was very surprised, the gas that we emptied out was clean and so was the inside of the tank. Almost no sediment, no varnish, no crud. Don't need to do anything to the inside.

There is some rust on the outside. Not bad, and certainly no danger of rusting through. But I'd like to clean the outside, remove the rust, and then do something to protect it for the future. I wonder if there was any sort of treatment done to the metal to keep it from rusting, and perhaps it wore out in just the few places? If I wire brush, steel wool, or sand that rust off, I'll likely have to protect the metal or it likely will rust again. Should i just sandblast the whole thing and apply a coating or paint? I hesitate to paint it because even though it is not visible in service that is not the way it was stock.

The other thing I did was take the ignition key (original Ford key) and the door and trunk lid locks. I'm going to see if a locksmith can modify the door and trunk locks to work with the ignition key, as was original.

Soon, I am told, the body (sans doors, trunk and hood, rear pillar glass and trim) will be painted black, then the white parts painted over that. Those pics will be much more interesting to post here.
Attached Images
File Type: jpeg Gas tank.jpeg (1.44 MB, 18 views)
File Type: jpeg Gas Tank 2.jpeg (2.00 MB, 16 views)
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  #199  
Old 04-28-2018, 02:43 PM
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I looked at some Youtube vids on fuel tank restoration. One guy had a tank that was in very good shape inside, but he still used a cleaner, an etcher, then poured some coating material inside.

In the case of one like 0327's, where it is very clean and I don't see any rust inside, I'm reluctant to use any kind of coating or other chemicals internally. I figure it ain't broke...

This guy sandblasted the exterior and then painted the outside black. I like the idea of a rust-resistant paint for protection, but it wasn't stock. I'm struggling with that part.
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  #200  
Old 04-28-2018, 06:51 PM
ssp5.0 ssp5.0 is offline
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Default 0327

Hi Steve
As for your gas tank, I would check with a radiator shop, some also repair fuel tanks regarding getting the rust off the outside....sparks vs gas fumes?
If I remember correctly, some fill the tank with water to dissipate the fumes before welding them, others I have heard use dry ice dropped in the tank to do this. Also remember a brass drift when reinstalling the lock rings. Eastwood Company has a product called Tank Tone for coating the outside. It might be a bit shinier than OEM but I assume you will reuse the black plastic tank shield.

In the matter of door locks, I suggest you contact a locksmith shop that has been in business for a long time and ask for a brand of automotive locks called ASP. They made the door & trunk cylinders with the same keyway as the ignition. I tried a distributor in Wash. state a few years back but they are no longer made. Have heard the offshore ones wear out quickly.
Bruce
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