+1 Great Work Aaron !!!:2thumbs:

Thanks Gregg, I know you like many others on here that have gone to this level appreciate saving these cars correctly.

When you get this car done you can proudly say you have "restored" the car. The term is used pretty loosely anymore and it is nice to see another car (and a rare one at that) getting "restored" properly. Nice job Aaron.

Aaron, the car is shaping up nicely;keep the progress pics coming.....

It's so nice to see the restoration documented of a rare SSP. Thanks for sharing the pics. You're talents show through the pictures.

:2thumbs:

There is a ton of work just drilling out the spot welds! Great work. Look forward to seeing some color on it.

Great work! You've inspired me to do that myself. Now I just need a place to do it...

More pictures, still have a TON of sanding to do:

K-member back from the powder coater:

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...ol/kmember.jpg

Doors re-installed and engine bay:

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...ol/testfit.jpg

K-member installed and the old suspension just to test fit and roll around on:

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...testfit2-1.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...l/SAM_2451.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...l/SAM_2450.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...l/SAM_2452.jpg

Aaron you need to go in business restoring SSP cars. Wich one of mine do you want to work on first????????

I think I am too particular to ever make any money at it, but it would sure be a fun business!

I hear you. I stopped counting when I had over 900 hours in the 92 CHP car. I talked to Mike Morrison last week about that car. I wish I had kept it !!

Thanks to John / xxtrpr for showing me the paperwork and a couple follow-up calls to the Kansas department of revenue. I now have the title history for my Kansas SSP. I have the certificate of origin, original KHP title, disposition of property, and all of the other titles and related paperwork. I also learned that after being a KHP car my car was bought by the Pottawatomie County Sherriff Office and served there from 94 to 2000.

Just to show everyone how small the world is we just hired a new engineer that sits right next to me, he graduated from K-State in 2005 (K-state is the county over from Pott. in Riley county) I asked him jokingly “hey you don’t know anyone one on the Pott. Co. Sheriffs dept do you?” he reply’s yeah one of my good buddies is a deputy. Long story short we spoke with him and I gave him sheriffs’ name off the title and the date range and they are going to see if they can find any pictures of the car. WOW!


Cliff Notes of the Title history:

Certificate of origin 2/19/1992 Larid Noller Ford Topeka, KS
Sold to Kansas Highway Patrol 3/23/1992 Purchase price $12,939
Sold: KHP to Pottawatomie Sheriffs office 1/5/1994 for $7,800 with 45,856 miles Westmoreland, KS
Sold: Pott. Co. to Jared H. 11/9/2000 with 120,104 miles Randolph, KS
Sold: Jared H. to Midwest Mustangs 7/12/2002 151419 miles Lawrence, KS
Sold: (no new title) Midwest Mustangs to Mustangs Plus, 9/26/2007 151,565 miles Kansas City MO
Sold: Mustangs Plus to Michael W. 3/7/2008 151,685 Iola, KS
Sold: Michael W. to Dwane / John Y. 6/14/2008 152,027 Emporia, KS
Sold: John Y. to Aaron Steiner 9/2010

The Kansas Highway Patrol title has #264 written on the top of it, The disposition of property lists the Property number as 10264, agency number as 280. xxtrpr had 5 of the unit numbers, 64, 440, 232, 305, and 92. Right now I am thinking my unit / plate number was 264.

Aaron, congrats !!!
You have lots of great documented history on the ssp! most would settle for half of what you have come up with ...:2thumbs:

Awesome info...congrats!

Time to update this thread:

After sanding on the car on and off for a while with a DA I decided I would give larger scale soda blasting a try. I found a local company with an industrial set up and I did my first trial run with them on my fenders, I was so happy with the results I decided to do the entire car.

Here are some pictures of the fenders, soda blasted, washed with soap and water, scuffed with red 3M scotch-brite, washed again with soap and water, wiped with final kleen, etch primed with Nason 491-17, then primed with Nason 421-19

Bare Metal
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...l/blasted1.jpg
Etch Primed
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...rol/etched.jpg
Primed fender. The shell (quarters and doors pre-soda blasting)
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...imedFender.jpg

Friday 6/10:

Took the KHP shell to get soda blasted this afternoon, it came out excellent but reveled a little more work, the previous owners repaint / prep work really did more harm then good. Now all of that paint is completely removed and all that remains is a few remnants of the factory paint.

Pre-blasting:

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...trol/LHpre.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...trol/RHpre.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...lastedrear.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...deblasted1.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...deblasted2.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...ideblasted.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...l/reardone.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...RHsidedone.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...rol/LHdone.jpg

6/12:

Spent the morning with a buddy doing some finish sanding and then washing all of the soda out of every nook and cranny. After drying the car out and letting it bake in the sun for a few hours it was time for primer!!!
Clean Bare Metal

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...eppedshell.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...ppedshell2.jpg

Etching Primer

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d.../etchedrh2.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d.../etchedrh1.jpg

2k Urethane Primer:

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...ol/primed2.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...ol/primed3.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...ol/primed1.jpg

Thanks for sharing the pictures Aaron! That SSP will be bee-you-tee-full when you're done.

As we all know the word "RESTORATION" is thrown around by a view select individuals that only wish they had the talent, patience, location, and resources to actually "restore" a car. The best way to prove the extent of the work being done is to document it all with pictures like what is being done here.

Great job Aaron. You are definately doing it the right way. Keep up the good work and I am sure it will be sweet when completed.

Thanks guys! It’s finally getting back to the “fun” stage of the resto, I have a few patch panels I need to weld in but I had good weather and some time to get the blasting/cleaning/priming done so I took advantage of it. This was the first time I have had a car soda blasted and I have to say it was awesome and will save me a ton of work.

The only thing I have heard about the soda blasting system is that you need to be sure and flush everything very well and not leave any of the soda residue in the cracks and crevices anywhere.

Coming along beautifully! Lots of talent and hard work there too. :cool:

That is just fantastic! Really wonderful that you have taken it that far down. I can just imagine the final product!

Yeah, that is the same thing I heard. All body plugs had already been removed and some of the seam sealer to let all of the body and bracing drain just like if it where being e-coated. I had washed the shell previously, then I did the following to clean and prep the shell this time:

Air blow at the soda blasting shop, he had a 200 psi 1 inch air hose that blew away (literally) any air blower I had, lol. We blew out every nook and cranny including the frame rails, wheel arches, roof braces, cowl, floors, etc.

It then when for a 50 mile cruise on an open trailer down the highway at 70-75mph. Saturday I shop-vac’ed any little piles of soda I could find and blew everything out again with my puny 120psi air gun.

Then I had a buddy come over that owed me a favor and we got the hose out and washed everything, flooded the rear quarters, washed out the roof rails, floor pans, bracing, frame rails, rockers, doors, etc. We then scuffed the whole car with scotchbrite red scuff pads and 320 sand paper. Then washed everything above again with hot dish soap saturated water. After the final rinse we towel dried everything, and blew air into every pinch weld, brace, and nook to get any remaining water out, then set it in the 90 degree sun for 5 hours (perfect day to wash a shell)

Then I rolled the car back in the shop, scuffed a few small spots that flash rusted on me and wiped the whole car down with Dupont Final clean. Pictures are worth a thousand words but they definitely did not show all the steps between blasting and priming.

Started on round 1 of blocking, thanks to the previous jackwagon that owned it he added a few divots to the metal on that last repaint. Laid the guide coat Saturday and started blocking that afternoon.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...Guidecoat1.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...Guidecoat2.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d.../Blocking1.jpg

Started some work on the under body. The rear section of the car was a little rusty, from the rear seat forward the floor boards are perfect though. Kinda odd how the engine bay and rear floor area were the only sections that rusted. Anyway the engine bay is all new and now the rear pan under the seat, rear frame rails and underside of the trunk are like new.

If you don't remember this is what it looked like when I picked the car up:

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...trol/10246.jpg

Then I had the rear section of the underbody sandblasted. This is after the blasting and after I scrubbed it down thoroughly with soap and water and let it dry for 2 days in the 100 degree heat/sun:

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...Sandblast1.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...Sandblast2.jpg

After the sand blasting, cleaning and prep I used POR15 Gray to coat the rear underbody including the inside of every nook and cranny. I will also be painting the main floorboards but will be using a different type of paint (same color though) very close to e-coat gray.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...rol/POR151.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...rol/POR152.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...rol/POR153.jpg

hey Aaron......don't you miss the days of laying on your back on a hard concrete floor working on the bottom of a car??? :)

bottom of the car looks great. The stuff I used on the bottom of the 92 CHP car had a little more greenish/gray tint to it. You may already have some but the product was a PPG DP40LF and the catalyst number is DP402LF.

Looking GREAT, Aaron! That car will be stunning when you're done.

Lol, not at all the lift is the best tool I ever bought. I am actually thinking about getting another one.

I have some DuPont Chromobase that I had color matched to the ecoat. I did a friends 90 GT underbody with it and its what I plan to use on the floor boards. The POR15 Gray is pretty close and once it gets exposed to UV light it seems to tint more to the green/gray of ecoat.

Here is a pic of the DuPont paint I used to do the complete underbody of the 90GT, the gloss is not correct but it's what the owner wanted.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...underbody1.jpg

ohhh yeh I like that.... Do you think some sort of flattening agent would take away some of that gloss? That color is spot on !

I have seen clear flattening additives but never used them. I know DuPont has a line of semi-gloss and flat clear coats. I think the flat would probably be the way to go for a 100% correct resto. That 90GT underbody was straight auto clearcoat Nason 496-00 it’s a lot glossier then the picture makes it seem, but like I said that’s what the owner wanted. The POR15 I sprayed came out as a semi-gloss, it’s probably a little to shiny to be OEM but I wanted a really good coating on that rear section of the car. I am going to use a semi-gloss clear on the floor pans so it matches the rear section of the under body.

You're going to have quite a pair of SSPs when this one is done. Very nice.

Hey Aaron if you don't mind can you send me the part #s for the stuff? I will try some of that on the bottom of the 85 Texas car.

Jim, are you looking for the DuPont stuff or POR15? Here is the POR15, I will have to look up the DuPont stuff when I get home.

http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/

OK, so now that the fire is going again under my butt I have some more slight progress to share. A couple weeks ago my buddy Brandon who is an amazing welder and metal fabricator helped me replace the last pieces of the body that had rust on them. The only thing we have left to do is the front section of the floor boards.

Here is the lower section of the left rear quarter panel. It had no rust on the outside but some rust on the inside, I figured I am this far I want to get the car to no rust anywhere at all. This is another donor panel from Ron’s ISP 4057 SSP.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...rterPatch1.jpg http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...rterpatch2.jpg

This is how the right hand wheel arch came out, I had to get this from a donor car in the junk yard. I cut all the patches and Brandon did the welding, grinding, fitting, it’s like it was never done, I have not blocked it yet but it does not feel like it will even need a skim coat. Like I said he is amazing with metal!

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d.../Wheelarch.jpg